From owner-vectorlist   Fri Jun  1 19:10:29 2001
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Message-ID: <000b01c0eaed$681db520$3fc90c18 >
From: "Lewis Mills" <lmills01 >
To: <vectorlist >
References: <4.3.2.7.2.20010523091948.01aa5260 >
Subject: Re: VECTOR: Missing Battlezone voltage and Germanium diodes
Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 17:51:33 -0500
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Status: RO

Thanks for the replies. I've replaced the regulators and two Germanium
diodes (NTE109 is apparently a sub for a 1N100, and the local electronics
shop had 3 in stock!), and now get the correct voltages at all the
testpoints on the A/R and the game boards. I've resoldered all the connector
pins, and looked with a magnifying glass for cold solder joints. But the
game still does not come up. The start button lights up steadily, not
blinking, and nothing happens when I press it. Any suggestion on next steps?
I have a logic probe and pulser that I've never used; can somebody point me
to a good website, or a good book, that could get me up and started on the
use of a logic probe on arcade games?
Thanks,
Lewis


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From owner-vectorlist   Fri Jun  1 22:47:53 2001
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Message-ID: <000b01c0eb0c$c4cedc80$0801a8c0@capu.net>
From: "Chris Starr" <cstarr@capu.net>
To: <vectorlist >
Subject: VECTOR: WG6100 I'm confused.
Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 22:36:03 -0400
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I have to bench test my WG6100 monitor and have 1 simple question.

What is the AC voltage requirement?? Is it 50 VAC or 25 VAC ????
The reason I ask is because my Space Duel Manul Power Supply schematic lists
50VAC (center tapped) running to the molex connector and the monitor page in
the tech drawings AND in the WG6100 montior manual say it is 25VAC (center
tapped). So which one is it?

I will be using an variac in the power supply chain to vary the output
voltage coming from a 1:1 properly grounded isolation transformer.

Thanks.

c-starr 
remove NOSPAM to direct reply.


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From owner-vectorlist   Sat Jun  2 09:52:03 2001
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Message-ID: <002a01c0eb69$7c31b620$0bd6d2cc >
From: "Alex Yeckley" <ayeckley >
To: <vectorlist >
Subject: VECTOR: Vector: Speed Freak signatures?
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Has anybody gone through Vectorbeam Speed
Freak and collected Exorcisor signatures for it?

There appear to be some subtle differences between
Cinematronics and Vectorbeam boards, and I'm not
sure if the Cinemat signatures are valid for Vectorbeam
stuff.  Also, are any mods required to the board (as in
Tailgunner and Space Wars)?  Thanks to anyone that
can help...

Alex
--
http://www.elektronforge.com
ayeckley 

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From owner-vectorlist   Sat Jun  2 10:25:46 2001
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From: jeff hendrix <jhendrix >
To: "'vectorlist >
Subject: RE: VECTOR: WG6100 I'm confused.
Date: Sat, 2 Jun 2001 08:10:02 -0600 
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It's 25 volts on each side of the center tap (which is 50v center tapped).

-jeff

-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Starr [mailto:cstarr@capu.net]
Sent: Friday, June 01, 2001 8:36 PM
To: vectorlist 
Subject: VECTOR: WG6100 I'm confused.


I have to bench test my WG6100 monitor and have 1 simple question.

What is the AC voltage requirement?? Is it 50 VAC or 25 VAC ????
The reason I ask is because my Space Duel Manul Power Supply schematic lists
50VAC (center tapped) running to the molex connector and the monitor page in
the tech drawings AND in the WG6100 montior manual say it is 25VAC (center
tapped). So which one is it?

I will be using an variac in the power supply chain to vary the output
voltage coming from a 1:1 properly grounded isolation transformer.

Thanks.

c-starr 
remove NOSPAM to direct reply.


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From owner-vectorlist   Sat Jun  2 11:39:35 2001
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Message-ID: <002b01c0eb78$b0346300$6401a8c0@DavidFish>
From: "David Fish" <dfish1@mediaone.net>
To: <vectorlist >
References: <002a01c0eb69$7c31b620$0bd6d2cc >
Subject: Re: VECTOR: Vector: Speed Freak signatures?
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  The Dec 80 Star*Tech journal describes what needs to
be modified on the Vectorbeam CPU in order to use
the Cine' Exorcisor. There is one trace cut and two jumpers
necessary. They say...

1) Cut the trace shown in Fig 1.
2) Tie pin 1 of L11 to +5V.
3) Jumper IC F6 pin 6 to IC 8 pin 11

  The Figure 1 picture is VERY poor but it looks like it's
the component side trace just below IC L11 (74LS157).
This trace runs horizontally about 1/2" from one feedthru to
another. The trace shown is the same as that on a Cine'
board.
  You'll notice that step 3 doesn't specify the complete
designation of the jumper. Star*Tech just copied the
Service Bulliten, it doesn't specify it either. If you find
out which IC it's suppose to be let us all know.

David Fish                               "We want...Information. INFORMATION
Melrose, MA  USA                                You won't get it!
   dfish1.at.mediaone.net                  By hook or by crook we will"
   David.Fish.at.axcelis.com                               _The Prisoner_



----- Original Message -----
From: Alex Yeckley <ayeckley >
To: <vectorlist >
Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2001 9:39 AM
Subject: VECTOR: Vector: Speed Freak signatures?


> Has anybody gone through Vectorbeam Speed
> Freak and collected Exorcisor signatures for it?
>
> There appear to be some subtle differences between
> Cinematronics and Vectorbeam boards, and I'm not
> sure if the Cinemat signatures are valid for Vectorbeam
> stuff.  Also, are any mods required to the board (as in
> Tailgunner and Space Wars)?  Thanks to anyone that
> can help...
>
> Alex
> --
> http://www.elektronforge.com
> ayeckley 
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
> ** To UNSUBSCRIBE from vectorlist, send a message with "UNSUBSCRIBE" in
the
> ** message body to vectorlist-request . Please direct other
> ** questions, comments, or problems to neil .

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From owner-vectorlist   Sat Jun  2 11:50:59 2001
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Message-ID: <006d01c0eb7a$41799b40$80789fcd >
From: "James R. Twine" <jtwine >
To: <vectorlist >
Subject: VECTOR: Tempest monitor...?
Date: Sat, 2 Jun 2001 11:39:47 -0400
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   Someone was asking about the availability of a Vector monitor?

   Bob Roberts is parting out a Tempest:
http://personal.msy.bellsouth.net/msy/b/o/bob147/special.html

   He might be able to help you out.

   Peace!

-=- James R. Twine <jtwine >
    Senior Software Developer

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From owner-vectorlist   Sat Jun  2 13:35:23 2001
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Date: Sat, 02 Jun 2001 10:20:22 -0700
To: vectorlist 
From: John Robertson <jrr >
Subject: Re: VECTOR: Vector: Speed Freak signatures?
In-Reply-To: <002b01c0eb78$b0346300$6401a8c0@DavidFish>
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I have a couple of tech bulletins from Cine (Brightness problems and 
upgrading resistors on the B&W XY) but nothing on this...Would anyone like 
a copy? I can PDF and post on flippers if there is interest.

John :-#(#

At 08:28 AM 02/06/2001, you wrote:
>   The Dec 80 Star*Tech journal describes what needs to
>be modified on the Vectorbeam CPU in order to use
>the Cine' Exorcisor. There is one trace cut and two jumpers
>necessary. They say...
>
>1) Cut the trace shown in Fig 1.
>2) Tie pin 1 of L11 to +5V.
>3) Jumper IC F6 pin 6 to IC 8 pin 11
>
>   The Figure 1 picture is VERY poor but it looks like it's
>the component side trace just below IC L11 (74LS157).
>This trace runs horizontally about 1/2" from one feedthru to
>another. The trace shown is the same as that on a Cine'
>board.
>   You'll notice that step 3 doesn't specify the complete
>designation of the jumper. Star*Tech just copied the
>Service Bulliten, it doesn't specify it either. If you find
>out which IC it's suppose to be let us all know.
>
>David Fish                               "We want...Information. INFORMATION
>Melrose, MA  USA                                You won't get it!
>    dfish1.at.mediaone.net                  By hook or by crook we will"
>    David.Fish.at.axcelis.com                               _The Prisoner_
>
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Alex Yeckley <ayeckley >
>To: <vectorlist >
>Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2001 9:39 AM
>Subject: VECTOR: Vector: Speed Freak signatures?
>
>
> > Has anybody gone through Vectorbeam Speed
> > Freak and collected Exorcisor signatures for it?
> >
> > There appear to be some subtle differences between
> > Cinematronics and Vectorbeam boards, and I'm not
> > sure if the Cinemat signatures are valid for Vectorbeam
> > stuff.  Also, are any mods required to the board (as in
> > Tailgunner and Space Wars)?  Thanks to anyone that
> > can help...
> >
> > Alex
> > --
> > http://www.elektronforge.com
> > ayeckley 
> >
> > --------------------------------------------------------------------------
>-
> > ** To UNSUBSCRIBE from vectorlist, send a message with "UNSUBSCRIBE" in
>the
> > ** message body to vectorlist-request . Please direct other
> > ** questions, comments, or problems to neil .
>
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From owner-vectorlist   Sat Jun  2 17:27:09 2001
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Message-ID: <000401c0eba8$f9cbf3e0$0801a8c0@capu.net>
From: "Chris Starr" <cstarr@capu.net>
To: <vectorlist >
References: <3D62AB6FFC80D211A84700104B10CB2C0B4E08DB >
Subject: Re: VECTOR: WG6100 I'm confused.
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DUHHHHHHHHHHHH!!! Boy do I feel stupid. I figured it was something to that
effect.

Thanks Jeff for the LV2000 - it works perfectly.

c-starr




----- Original Message -----
From: "jeff hendrix" <jhendrix >
To: <vectorlist >
Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2001 10:10 AM
Subject: RE: VECTOR: WG6100 I'm confused.


> It's 25 volts on each side of the center tap (which is 50v center tapped).
>
> -jeff
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Chris Starr [mailto:cstarr@capu.net]
> Sent: Friday, June 01, 2001 8:36 PM
> To: vectorlist 
> Subject: VECTOR: WG6100 I'm confused.
>
>
> I have to bench test my WG6100 monitor and have 1 simple question.
>
> What is the AC voltage requirement?? Is it 50 VAC or 25 VAC ????
> The reason I ask is because my Space Duel Manul Power Supply schematic
lists
> 50VAC (center tapped) running to the molex connector and the monitor page
in
> the tech drawings AND in the WG6100 montior manual say it is 25VAC (center
> tapped). So which one is it?
>
> I will be using an variac in the power supply chain to vary the output
> voltage coming from a 1:1 properly grounded isolation transformer.
>
> Thanks.
>
> c-starr 
> remove NOSPAM to direct reply.
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
> ** To UNSUBSCRIBE from vectorlist, send a message with "UNSUBSCRIBE" in
the
> ** message body to vectorlist-request . Please direct other
> ** questions, comments, or problems to neil .
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From owner-vectorlist   Sat Jun  2 18:35:10 2001
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Message-ID: <20010602221802.88185.qmail >
Date: Sat, 2 Jun 2001 15:18:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: Steve Griswold <stevegriswold >
Subject: Re: VECTOR: Tempest monitor...?
To: vectorlist 
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--0-1009626487-991520282=:88178
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii


 Hi, James,
Thanks for the Tempest tip.
Steve
  "James R. Twine" <jtwine > wrote: Someone was asking about the availability of a Vector monitor?

Bob Roberts is parting out a Tempest:
http://personal.msy.bellsouth.net/msy/b/o/bob147/special.html

He might be able to help you out.

Peace!

-=- James R. Twine 
Senior Software Developer

-----BEGIN GEEK CODE BLOCK-----
Version: 3.12
GCS d- s+:+ a28 C++++$ UL+++>++++ P+ t+++ 5+ X+++ tv+
b++ DI++ G++ h e(++) r++ W++ N+++ w++(+++) M-- PS+
------END GEEK CODE BLOCK------


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---------------------------------
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail Personal Address - Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
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<P> Hi, James,
<P>Thanks for the Tempest tip.
<P>Steve
<P>&nbsp; <B><I>"James R. Twine" &lt;jtwine &gt;</I></B> wrote: 
<BLOCKQUOTE style="BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Someone was asking about the availability of a Vector monitor?<BR><BR>Bob Roberts is parting out a Tempest:<BR>http://personal.msy.bellsouth.net/msy/b/o/bob147/special.html<BR><BR>He might be able to help you out.<BR><BR>Peace!<BR><BR>-=- James R. Twine <JTWINE .</BLOCKQUOTE><p><br><hr size=1><b>Do You Yahoo!?</b><br>
<a href="http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/?.refer=mailiyfoot">Yahoo! Mail Personal Address</a> - 
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
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From owner-vectorlist   Sun Jun  3 01:04:43 2001
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From: "Appolo" <appolo@mediaone.net>
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Subject: VECTOR: Tempest PCB trades?
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A while back I traded 2 non-working Tempest PCBs for a working one. Anyone
interested in doing the same trade again?  I want a backup board for my
Tempest CT (see project page).

One of these was tested and working for about an hour today - now I get the
spot killer and it doesn't show credits. I was using the main board to test
another aux board and it went dead - even when I switched back to the
original AUX board.

Please email me directly at appolo@mediaone.net

Thanks.

Mike Appolo
http://www.appolo.com

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From owner-vectorlist   Sun Jun  3 13:22:10 2001
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From: "Rod" <rgdooley >
To: <vectorlist >
Subject: RE: VECTOR: Vector: Speed Freak signatures?
Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2001 10:07:08 -0700
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Hi
I would like to see those bulletins if possible.
Thanks
Rod
Kelowna BC

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-vectorlist 
[mailto:owner-vectorlist ]On Behalf Of John Robertson
Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2001 10:20 AM
To: vectorlist 
Subject: Re: VECTOR: Vector: Speed Freak signatures?


I have a couple of tech bulletins from Cine (Brightness problems and 
upgrading resistors on the B&W XY) but nothing on this...Would anyone like 
a copy? I can PDF and post on flippers if there is interest.

John :-#(#


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From owner-vectorlist   Sun Jun  3 15:56:40 2001
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From: "Paul D. Parisi" <parisi@mediaone.net>
To: <vectorlist >
Subject: VECTOR: Tempest XY Board wanted... 
Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2001 15:45:13 -0400
Message-ID: <KBECLPEECPJMPDIHPPDIOECNCEAA.parisi@mediaone.net>
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Does anyone have a Tempest XY Board? Preferably in good shape. I need one.

Thanks,
Paul.
parisi@mediaone.net
978-887-9868 x 222 v day
978-887-8156 eve and weekends
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From owner-vectorlist   Sun Jun  3 19:23:11 2001
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Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2001 19:11:26 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Christopher X. Candreva" <chris >
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To: <vectorlist >
Subject: Re: VECTOR: Missing Battlezone voltage and Germanium diodes
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On Fri, 1 Jun 2001, Lewis Mills wrote:

> testpoints on the A/R and the game boards. I've resoldered all the connector
> pins, and looked with a magnifying glass for cold solder joints. But the
> game still does not come up. The start button lights up steadily, not
> blinking, and nothing happens when I press it. Any suggestion on next steps?

Did you try putting the game in self-test mode ?

I have an intermittant problem on mine. When this happens, one of the
mathbox errors will come up, and I basicly push various parts of the PCB
until it works.

Yes -- I have reflowed much solder on these boards. Obviously I have not
found the magic one yet.

-Chris


==========================================================
Chris Candreva  -- chris  -- (914) 967-7816
WestNet Internet Services of Westchester
http://www.westnet.com/

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From owner-vectorlist   Sun Jun  3 19:51:25 2001
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From: "Lewis Mills" <lmills01 >
To: <vectorlist >
References: <Pine.GSO.4.33.0106031910030.29569-100000@westnet>
Subject: Re: VECTOR: Missing Battlezone voltage and Germanium diodes
Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2001 18:26:07 -0500
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Hi,
I'm making a little progress. I've got the boardset far enough along to get
into the test mode. Combining these boards with a working set, I can tell
that the main board has a bad RAM at C2. I've got a bunch of 2114s on the
way from BGMicro, so I hope I can get that straightened out.

The other problem is that the aux board has a math box "data error - high
byte." Is there any way to troubleshoot the math box error without a
signature analyzer?
Lewis

----- Original Message -----
From: "Christopher X. Candreva" <chris >
To: <vectorlist >
Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2001 6:11 PM
Subject: Re: VECTOR: Missing Battlezone voltage and Germanium diodes


> On Fri, 1 Jun 2001, Lewis Mills wrote:
>
> > testpoints on the A/R and the game boards. I've resoldered all the
connector
> > pins, and looked with a magnifying glass for cold solder joints. But the
> > game still does not come up. The start button lights up steadily, not
> > blinking, and nothing happens when I press it. Any suggestion on next
steps?
>
> Did you try putting the game in self-test mode ?
>
> I have an intermittant problem on mine. When this happens, one of the
> mathbox errors will come up, and I basicly push various parts of the PCB
> until it works.
>
> Yes -- I have reflowed much solder on these boards. Obviously I have not
> found the magic one yet.
>
> -Chris
>
>
> ==========================================================
> Chris Candreva  -- chris  -- (914) 967-7816
> WestNet Internet Services of Westchester
> http://www.westnet.com/
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
> ** To UNSUBSCRIBE from vectorlist, send a message with "UNSUBSCRIBE" in
the
> ** message body to vectorlist-request . Please direct other
> ** questions, comments, or problems to neil .

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From owner-vectorlist   Sun Jun  3 20:38:45 2001
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From: "Chris Starr" <cstarr@capu.net>
To: <vectorlist >
References: <Pine.GSO.4.33.0106031910030.29569-100000 >
Subject: Re: VECTOR: Missing Battlezone voltage and Germanium diodes
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While you're getting 2114s from BGMicro I'd recommend getting a few AM2901s
as well. First try cleaning the sockets for these chips, and if that doesn't
do it, then replace them.


----- Original Message -----
From: "Lewis Mills" <lmills01 >
To: <vectorlist >
Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2001 7:26 PM
Subject: Re: VECTOR: Missing Battlezone voltage and Germanium diodes


> Hi,
> I'm making a little progress. I've got the boardset far enough along to
get
> into the test mode. Combining these boards with a working set, I can tell
> that the main board has a bad RAM at C2. I've got a bunch of 2114s on the
> way from BGMicro, so I hope I can get that straightened out.
>
> The other problem is that the aux board has a math box "data error - high
> byte." Is there any way to troubleshoot the math box error without a
> signature analyzer?
> Lewis
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Christopher X. Candreva" <chris >
> To: <vectorlist >
> Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2001 6:11 PM
> Subject: Re: VECTOR: Missing Battlezone voltage and Germanium diodes
>
>
> > On Fri, 1 Jun 2001, Lewis Mills wrote:
> >
> > > testpoints on the A/R and the game boards. I've resoldered all the
> connector
> > > pins, and looked with a magnifying glass for cold solder joints. But
the
> > > game still does not come up. The start button lights up steadily, not
> > > blinking, and nothing happens when I press it. Any suggestion on next
> steps?
> >
> > Did you try putting the game in self-test mode ?
> >
> > I have an intermittant problem on mine. When this happens, one of the
> > mathbox errors will come up, and I basicly push various parts of the PCB
> > until it works.
> >
> > Yes -- I have reflowed much solder on these boards. Obviously I have not
> > found the magic one yet.
> >
> > -Chris
> >
> >
> > ==========================================================
> > Chris Candreva  -- chris  -- (914) 967-7816
> > WestNet Internet Services of Westchester
> > http://www.westnet.com/
> >
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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> the
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> > ** questions, comments, or problems to neil .
>
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From owner-vectorlist   Sun Jun  3 21:20:24 2001
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On Sun, 3 Jun 2001, Lewis Mills wrote:

> The other problem is that the aux board has a math box "data error - high
> byte." Is there any way to troubleshoot the math box error without a
> signature analyzer?

First step is checking the connects on the interconnect cable. As I said --
mine is fixed by 'fluffing' the wires, or pushing various parts of the
board.


==========================================================
Chris Candreva  -- chris  -- (914) 967-7816
WestNet Internet Services of Westchester
http://www.westnet.com/

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From owner-vectorlist   Mon Jun  4 01:57:42 2001
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From: "Clay Cowgill" <vector_clay >
To: vectorlist 
Subject: VECTOR: Omega Race questions (and WTB)
Date: Sun, 03 Jun 2001 22:42:53 -0700
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Just picked up an Omega Race upright this weekend.  (Semi functional-- yet 
another project for my next lifetime or something. ;-)

I'm assuming the back edge and part of the bottom got a little wet at some 
point, but what what in the hell is that cabinet made out of?  Compressed 
cat fur?  Hemp?  It sure as hell doesn't appear to be any remote relative of 
wood!

(For those of you that have never seen it, when this stuff starts to 
separate its... well... "fluffy".  Soft.  Like fur.  Weird.)

I doubt it'd be damaged any further by me, but I'm inclined to try to 
re-stabilize it.  Anyone ever try this?  I'm thinking of something like 
saturating the "fur" with diluted Elmers wood-glue, or maybe some kind of 
thin epoxy, and then clamping it down between some 1"x4"s with some C-clamps 
or something.  Any suggestions?

Other than a couple of furry edges it's in nice shape.  Inside there appears 
to be left and right bezel artwork, is there supposed to be a back piece?  
(If so, anyone have one they want to sell?)

Did any Omega Race cabinets have t-molding on them?  (This appears to just 
have the compressed cat fur formed and painted-- looks original to me.)

Thanks,
-Clay

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

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From owner-vectorlist   Mon Jun  4 02:08:07 2001
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Message-ID: <3B1B2281.F00DAFAF@mediaone.net>
Date: Mon, 04 Jun 2001 01:54:10 -0400
From: someotherguy <someotherguy@mediaone.net>
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Must be pressed paper, like many other Bally/Midway games - Galaga, TRON, etc.
I thought OR had t-molding?  Maybe someone filled the channel and painted over
it.

Your glue idea sounds good, if not ambitious.  Let us know how it turns out  : )

Richard


Clay Cowgill wrote:

> Just picked up an Omega Race upright this weekend.  (Semi functional-- yet
> another project for my next lifetime or something. ;-)
>
> I'm assuming the back edge and part of the bottom got a little wet at some
> point, but what what in the hell is that cabinet made out of?  Compressed
> cat fur?  Hemp?  It sure as hell doesn't appear to be any remote relative of
> wood!
>
> (For those of you that have never seen it, when this stuff starts to
> separate its... well... "fluffy".  Soft.  Like fur.  Weird.)
>
> I doubt it'd be damaged any further by me, but I'm inclined to try to
> re-stabilize it.  Anyone ever try this?  I'm thinking of something like
> saturating the "fur" with diluted Elmers wood-glue, or maybe some kind of
> thin epoxy, and then clamping it down between some 1"x4"s with some C-clamps
> or something.  Any suggestions?
>
> Other than a couple of furry edges it's in nice shape.  Inside there appears
> to be left and right bezel artwork, is there supposed to be a back piece?
> (If so, anyone have one they want to sell?)
>
> Did any Omega Race cabinets have t-molding on them?  (This appears to just
> have the compressed cat fur formed and painted-- looks original to me.)
>
> Thanks,
> -Clay
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
>
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From owner-vectorlist   Mon Jun  4 08:46:17 2001
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From: "peter jones" <highwayman2000@mail.ru>
To: vectorlist 
Subject: Re: VECTOR: Omega Race questions (and WTB)
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-----Original Message-----
From: "Clay Cowgill" <vector_clay >
To: vectorlist 
Date: Sun, 03 Jun 2001 22:42:53 -0700
Subject: VECTOR: Omega Race questions (and WTB)

> 
> Just picked up an Omega Race upright this weekend.  (Semi functional-- yet 
> another project for my next lifetime or something. ;-)
> 
> I'm assuming the back edge and part of the bottom got a little wet at some 
> point, but what what in the hell is that cabinet made out of?  Compressed 
> cat fur?  Hemp?  It sure as hell doesn't appear to be any remote relative of 
> wood!
> 
> (For those of you that have never seen it, when this stuff starts to 
> separate its... well... "fluffy".  Soft.  Like fur.  Weird.)
> 
> I doubt it'd be damaged any further by me, but I'm inclined to try to 
> re-stabilize it.  Anyone ever try this?  I'm thinking of something like 
> saturating the "fur" with diluted Elmers wood-glue, or maybe some kind of 
> thin epoxy, and then clamping it down between some 1"x4"s with some C-clamps 
> or something.  Any suggestions?
> 
> Other than a couple of furry edges it's in nice shape.  Inside there appears 
> to be left and right bezel artwork, is there supposed to be a back piece?  
> (If so, anyone have one they want to sell?)
> 

The crap you are talking about is called MDF.
it is used a lot in europe, i dont know about the u.s.
(land of tree-killers!)

it may look like shit, but it is stronger than plywood,
i used to make control-panels out of it.

it is so dense that it can burn the blade on my jigsaw!!!

it is compressed wood-pulp, like 2/3 inch thick cardboard.

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From owner-vectorlist   Mon Jun  4 09:53:26 2001
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From: "James Marous" <jamesm >
To: <vectorlist >
Subject: RE: VECTOR: Omega Race questions (and WTB)
Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 09:35:06 -0400
Message-ID: <ECEHIKNCPKBGBHEMFCCIIEBLCFAA.jamesm >
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Go to your local marine parts dealer.  They sell a product to restore rotted
wood on boats.  It's a 2 part catalyzed epoxy deal, you mix it together, put
it on the wood and it soaks in and hardens the wood to the point that you
can even sand and shape it.  I think I even saw it used on "This Old House"
once to repair rotted windows.  Can't remember the name of the product, but
they should know....

			James

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-vectorlist 
> [mailto:owner-vectorlist ]On Behalf Of Clay Cowgill
> Sent: Monday, June 04, 2001 1:43 AM
> To: vectorlist 
> Subject: VECTOR: Omega Race questions (and WTB)
>
>
> Just picked up an Omega Race upright this weekend.  (Semi
> functional-- yet
> another project for my next lifetime or something. ;-)
>
> I'm assuming the back edge and part of the bottom got a little
> wet at some
> point, but what what in the hell is that cabinet made out of?  Compressed
> cat fur?  Hemp?  It sure as hell doesn't appear to be any remote
> relative of
> wood!
>
> (For those of you that have never seen it, when this stuff starts to
> separate its... well... "fluffy".  Soft.  Like fur.  Weird.)
>
> I doubt it'd be damaged any further by me, but I'm inclined to try to
> re-stabilize it.  Anyone ever try this?  I'm thinking of something like
> saturating the "fur" with diluted Elmers wood-glue, or maybe some kind of
> thin epoxy, and then clamping it down between some 1"x4"s with
> some C-clamps
> or something.  Any suggestions?
>
> Other than a couple of furry edges it's in nice shape.  Inside
> there appears
> to be left and right bezel artwork, is there supposed to be a
> back piece?
> (If so, anyone have one they want to sell?)
>
> Did any Omega Race cabinets have t-molding on them?  (This
> appears to just
> have the compressed cat fur formed and painted-- looks original to me.)
>
> Thanks,
> -Clay
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
>
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Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 20:21:41 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Christopher X. Candreva" <chris >
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Subject: VECTOR: Vector skateboards 
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Just ran across this in rgvac.  A skateboard company is making some
decks based on Tempest, Asteroids, and Battlezone graphics.

http://www.verticalurge.com/cgi-bin/SoftCart.exe/scstore/v-aesth1.htm?E+scstore

I'm assuming the names in the logos are of known skateboarders.

==========================================================
Chris Candreva  -- chris  -- (914) 967-7816
WestNet Internet Services of Westchester
http://www.westnet.com/


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From owner-vectorlist   Mon Jun  4 23:31:02 2001
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From: "chumblespuzz" <chumblespuzz >
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Subject: Re: VECTOR: Vector skateboards 
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But they used an Asteroids Deluxe cab on the Asteroids board.

Still cool!

-roy-


----- Original Message -----
From: "Christopher X. Candreva" <chris >
To: <vectorlist >
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2001 8:21 PM
Subject: VECTOR: Vector skateboards


>
>
> Just ran across this in rgvac.  A skateboard company is making some
> decks based on Tempest, Asteroids, and Battlezone graphics.
>
>
http://www.verticalurge.com/cgi-bin/SoftCart.exe/scstore/v-aesth1.htm?E+scst
ore
>
> I'm assuming the names in the logos are of known skateboarders.
>
> ==========================================================
> Chris Candreva  -- chris  -- (914) 967-7816
> WestNet Internet Services of Westchester
> http://www.westnet.com/
>
>
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From: "David Shoemaker" <davids@oz.net>
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Subject: VECTOR: Atari big blue caps
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 00:30:47 -0700
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------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C0ED56.C3B89C40
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I am in need of a couple of the "Big blue" 27,000uf 15Vdc computer grade =
caps.

Bob Roberts has them for $7.00 anyone know of a better price in like 5 =
-10 qty?

Wow can the ripple get NASTY when those things give up.  :)

Thanks,
David

------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C0ED56.C3B89C40
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4522.1800" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I am in need of a couple of the "Big =
blue" 27,000uf=20
15Vdc computer grade caps.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Bob Roberts has them for $7.00 anyone =
know of a=20
better price in like 5 -10 qty?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Wow can the ripple get NASTY when those =
things give=20
up.&nbsp; :)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Thanks,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>David</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-vectorlist   Tue Jun  5 07:30:40 2001
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From: "Chris Starr" <cstarr@capu.net>
To: <vectorlist >
References: <000a01c0ed91$71027080$399827d8@obie>
Subject: Re: VECTOR: Atari big blue caps
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 07:17:16 -0400
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$7 is a really good price for a cap of that size. I think you will have =
a hard time finding better for an exact replacement.

  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: David Shoemaker=20
  To: vectorlist =20
  Cc: rasterlist =20
  Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2001 3:30 AM
  Subject: VECTOR: Atari big blue caps


  I am in need of a couple of the "Big blue" 27,000uf 15Vdc computer =
grade caps.

  Bob Roberts has them for $7.00 anyone know of a better price in like 5 =
-10 qty?

  Wow can the ripple get NASTY when those things give up.  :)

  Thanks,
  David

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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>$7 is a really good price for a cap of =
that size. I=20
think you will have a hard time finding better for an exact=20
replacement.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A title=3Ddavids@oz.net href=3D"mailto:davids@oz.net">David =
Shoemaker</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=3Dvectorlist =20
  href=3D"mailto:vectorlist </A> =
</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Cc:</B> <A =
title=3Drasterlist =20
  href=3D"mailto:rasterlist </A> =
</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, June 05, 2001 =
3:30=20
AM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> VECTOR: Atari big blue =

caps</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I am in need of a couple of the "Big =
blue"=20
  27,000uf 15Vdc computer grade caps.</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Bob Roberts has them for $7.00 anyone =
know of a=20
  better price in like 5 -10 qty?</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Wow can the ripple get NASTY when =
those things=20
  give up.&nbsp; :)</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Thanks,</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial =
size=3D2>David</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-vectorlist   Tue Jun  5 09:35:34 2001
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Date: Tue, 05 Jun 2001 08:21:30 -0500
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We've been getting some from Tanner Electronics in Dallas. They are
Mallory 35,000MFD 40VDC caps - deviating slightly from the factory
specs, but they work just fine and are about $2.00 each. And more
imprtantly, they are the correct size!


tm

Chris Starr wrote:

> $7 is a really good price for a cap of that size. I think you will
> have a hard time finding better for an exact replacement.
>
>      ----- Original Message -----
>      From: David Shoemaker
>      To: vectorlist 
>      Cc: rasterlist 
>      Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2001 3:30 AM
>      Subject: VECTOR: Atari big blue caps
>       I am in need of a couple of the "Big blue" 27,000uf 15Vdc
>      computer grade caps. Bob Roberts has them for $7.00 anyone
>      know of a better price in like 5 -10 qty? Wow can the ripple
>      get NASTY when those things give up.  :) Thanks,David
>

--------------6B51F02D1853F0D0752E5741
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<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
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We've been getting some from Tanner Electronics in Dallas. They are Mallory
35,000MFD 40VDC caps - deviating slightly from the factory specs, but they
work just fine and are about $2.00 each. And more imprtantly, they are
the correct size!
<br>&nbsp;
<p>tm
<p>Chris Starr wrote:
<blockquote TYPE=CITE><style></style>
<font face="Arial"><font size=-1>$7
is a really good price for a cap of that size. I think you will have a
hard time finding better for an exact replacement.</font></font>&nbsp;
<blockquote dir=ltr 
style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<div style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message -----</div>

<div 
  style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><b>From:</b>
<a href="mailto:davids@oz.net" title="davids@oz.net">David Shoemaker</a></div>

<div style="FONT: 10pt arial"><b>To:</b> <a href="mailto:vectorlist </a></div>

<div style="FONT: 10pt arial"><b>Cc:</b> <a href="mailto:rasterlist </a></div>

<div style="FONT: 10pt arial"><b>Sent:</b> Tuesday, June 05, 2001 3:30
AM</div>

<div style="FONT: 10pt arial"><b>Subject:</b> VECTOR: Atari big blue caps</div>
&nbsp;<font face="Arial"><font size=-1>I am in need of a couple of the
"Big blue" 27,000uf 15Vdc computer grade caps.</font></font>&nbsp;<font face="Arial"><font size=-1>Bob
Roberts has them for $7.00 anyone know of a better price in like 5 -10
qty?</font></font>&nbsp;<font face="Arial"><font size=-1>Wow can the ripple
get NASTY when those things give up.&nbsp; :)</font></font>&nbsp;<font face="Arial"><font size=-1>Thanks,</font></font><font face="Arial"><font size=-1>David</font></font></blockquote>
</blockquote>

</body>
</html>

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From owner-vectorlist   Tue Jun  5 15:40:32 2001
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From: "Travis Shire" <boardjunkie >
To: vectorlist 
Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 03:26:16 +0800
Subject: VECTOR: vector: asteroids deluxe cocktail video inversion
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Ok....just got around(bored enough) to repairing the dead deluxe pcb that was in this cocktail when I got it about 2 yrs ago and the video does not flip for the second player. A regular asteroids pcb works fine. Anyone know the theory for the deluxe video invertor? Can't find a manual for the cocktail version. Cabinet wiring is ok.

Oh yea.....what does "bank error" mean in the deluxe self test screen? something to do with the earom? Doesn't affect gameplay.

thanx

-- 

_______________________________________________
Get your free email from http://www.mail.com

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From owner-vectorlist   Tue Jun  5 16:05:13 2001
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Date: Tue, 05 Jun 2001 12:47:12 -0700
To: vectorlist 
From: John Robertson <jrr >
Subject: Re: VECTOR: vector: asteroids deluxe cocktail video inversion
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Hmm, well the screen flip logic is on the outputs of the DACs, should be 
easy to troubleshoot if you have a logic pulsar. Is there not a pin on the 
board that has to be tied to ground for the board to 'know' that it is in a 
c/t?

As for the bank error, check your balance book and see if you owe them any 
money...

John ;-#)#

At 12:26 PM 05/06/2001, you wrote:
>Ok....just got around(bored enough) to repairing the dead deluxe pcb that 
>was in this cocktail when I got it about 2 yrs ago and the video does not 
>flip for the second player. A regular asteroids pcb works fine. Anyone 
>know the theory for the deluxe video invertor? Can't find a manual for the 
>cocktail version. Cabinet wiring is ok.
>
>Oh yea.....what does "bank error" mean in the deluxe self test screen? 
>something to do with the earom? Doesn't affect gameplay.
>
>thanx
>
>--
>
>_______________________________________________
>Get your free email from http://www.mail.com
>
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From owner-vectorlist   Tue Jun  5 16:16:47 2001
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From: "Bret Pehrson" <bret >
To: <vectorlist >
Subject: RE: VECTOR: vector: asteroids deluxe cocktail video inversion
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 12:58:26 -0700
Message-ID: <NDEOIPIOHABEACPIPFLMCECHCJAA.bret >
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Page 7 of the AD cocktail manual:

INVERTING CIRCUITRY FAILURE is indicated by the BANK ERROR message in the
lower center part of the monitor screen.  This circuitry is necessary for
the cocktail-table version to function properly, that is, the picture turns
180 degrees with every other ship in 2-player cocktail games.

Sheet 2, side B of the schems lists the video inverter schematic.  It is
resistors and 4 transistors (all 2N3906, x: Q12, Q13; y: Q4, Q5).

Let me know in the next bit, and I can e-mail you a pic of the schem if you
need it.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-vectorlist 
> [mailto:owner-vectorlist ]On Behalf Of Travis Shire
> Sent: Tuesday, June 5, 2001 12:26 PM
> To: vectorlist 
> Subject: VECTOR: vector: asteroids deluxe cocktail video inversion
>
>
> Ok....just got around(bored enough) to repairing the dead deluxe
> pcb that was in this cocktail when I got it about 2 yrs ago and
> the video does not flip for the second player. A regular
> asteroids pcb works fine. Anyone know the theory for the deluxe
> video invertor? Can't find a manual for the cocktail version.
> Cabinet wiring is ok.
>
> Oh yea.....what does "bank error" mean in the deluxe self test
> screen? something to do with the earom? Doesn't affect gameplay.
>
> thanx
>
> --
>
> _______________________________________________
> Get your free email from http://www.mail.com
>
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From owner-vectorlist   Tue Jun  5 17:49:45 2001
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Message-ID: <20010605213300.73057.qmail >
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 14:33:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: Teaganm <teaganm >
Subject: Re: VECTOR: Omega Race questions (and WTB)
To: vectorlist 
In-Reply-To: <3B1B2281.F00DAFAF@mediaone.net>
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All the Omega Races I can remember have the smooth painted edges.

sm.

--- someotherguy <someotherguy@mediaone.net> wrote:
> Must be pressed paper, like many other Bally/Midway games - Galaga,
> TRON, etc.
> I thought OR had t-molding?  Maybe someone filled the channel and
> painted over
> it.
> 
> Your glue idea sounds good, if not ambitious.  Let us know how it turns
> out  : )
> 
> Richard
> 
> 
> Clay Cowgill wrote:
> 
> > Just picked up an Omega Race upright this weekend.  (Semi functional--
> yet
> > another project for my next lifetime or something. ;-)
> >
> > I'm assuming the back edge and part of the bottom got a little wet at
> some
> > point, but what what in the hell is that cabinet made out of? 
> Compressed
> > cat fur?  Hemp?  It sure as hell doesn't appear to be any remote
> relative of
> > wood!
> >
> > (For those of you that have never seen it, when this stuff starts to
> > separate its... well... "fluffy".  Soft.  Like fur.  Weird.)
> >
> > I doubt it'd be damaged any further by me, but I'm inclined to try to
> > re-stabilize it.  Anyone ever try this?  I'm thinking of something
> like
> > saturating the "fur" with diluted Elmers wood-glue, or maybe some kind
> of
> > thin epoxy, and then clamping it down between some 1"x4"s with some
> C-clamps
> > or something.  Any suggestions?
> >
> > Other than a couple of furry edges it's in nice shape.  Inside there
> appears
> > to be left and right bezel artwork, is there supposed to be a back
> piece?
> > (If so, anyone have one they want to sell?)
> >
> > Did any Omega Race cabinets have t-molding on them?  (This appears to
> just
> > have the compressed cat fur formed and painted-- looks original to
> me.)
> >
> > Thanks,
> > -Clay
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
> >
> >
>
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>
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From owner-vectorlist   Tue Jun  5 18:15:19 2001
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Message-ID: <000d01c0ee0c$7e6a7c60$6d43883e@freeserve.co.uk>
From: "Mike Mnemonic" <mike@nemonic.freeserve.co.uk>
To: "UKVAC" <ukvac >
Subject: VECTOR: Tempest / Centipede cabaret cabinets
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 23:10:43 +0100
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Hello everybody,
    Nice simple question ... Is a Tempest cabaret cabinet the same as a
Centipede cabaret  cabinet ?

Regards

Mike Mnemonic

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From owner-vectorlist   Tue Jun  5 18:18:33 2001
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cmdpcmwxOTk5QG1lZGlh


--==i3.9.0oisdboibsd((kncd--

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From owner-vectorlist   Tue Jun  5 18:34:23 2001
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Message-ID: <000d01c0ee0e$0ad5a3e0$0801a8c0@capu.net>
From: "Chris Starr" <cstarr@capu.net>
To: <vectorlist >
References: <000d01c0ee0c$7e6a7c60$6d43883e@freeserve.co.uk>
Subject: Re: VECTOR: Tempest / Centipede cabaret cabinets
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 18:22:43 -0400
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Mike Mnemonic,
you last email shot the dreaded BILL_GATES.PIF virus out to my email
directly, so you might want to check your machine with a good wscript virus
removal tool.


----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Mnemonic" <mike@nemonic.freeserve.co.uk>
To: "UKVAC" <ukvac >
Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2001 6:10 PM
Subject: VECTOR: Tempest / Centipede cabaret cabinets


> Hello everybody,
>     Nice simple question ... Is a Tempest cabaret cabinet the same as a
> Centipede cabaret  cabinet ?
>
> Regards
>
> Mike Mnemonic
>
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From owner-vectorlist   Tue Jun  5 18:36:34 2001
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Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 15:06:17 -0700 (PDT)
Message-Id: <200106052206.PAA27917@emerald.oz.net>
From: David Shoemaker <davids@oz.net>
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The mail from mike@nemonic.freeserve.co.uk 

Has a worm virus in it.

David

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From owner-vectorlist   Wed Jun  6 12:08:44 2001
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From: "Tim Tewalt" <tim >
To: "Vectorlist" <vectorlist >
Subject: VECTOR: Bring on the Sega's!
Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 09:46:24 -0600
Message-ID: <NEBBLPHDOKJPIABDKICAAEPPCGAA.tim >
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A friend and I picked up four Sega vectors in a bulk buy last
fall, and are at the point now where we are ready to begin
restoring them.  There are two Tac/Scan uprights a Star Trek
upright and a Star Trek cockpit.  They have been in storage
since 1986.

Currently, they're sitting in the back warehouse here at work
where we can work on them during our lunch hours.

Today, at high noon, with FAQ in one hand and lunchpail in the
other, we're off to power them up for the first time in fifteen
years.

Pray for us... please. :)
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From owner-vectorlist   Wed Jun  6 12:13:24 2001
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Subject: Re: VECTOR: Bring on the Sega's!
To: vectorlist 
Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 09:55:32 -0600 (MDT)
In-Reply-To: <NEBBLPHDOKJPIABDKICAAEPPCGAA.tim > from "Tim Tewalt" at Jun 06, 2001 09:46:24 AM
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> A friend and I picked up four Sega vectors in a bulk buy last
> fall, and are at the point now where we are ready to begin
> restoring them.  There are two Tac/Scan uprights a Star Trek
> upright and a Star Trek cockpit.  They have been in storage
> since 1986.
> 
> Currently, they're sitting in the back warehouse here at work
> where we can work on them during our lunch hours.
> 
> Today, at high noon, with FAQ in one hand and lunchpail in the
> other, we're off to power them up for the first time in fifteen
> years.

Save a hand for the fire extinguisher..  :)

good luck.

Kurt
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From owner-vectorlist   Wed Jun  6 13:43:13 2001
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Message-ID: <3B1E67A2.AF283A49@ni.net>
Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 10:25:55 -0700
From: Matt Rossiter <rossiter@ni.net>
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Subject: VECTOR: Source for Amplifone M48AAWOOX tubes?
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Has anyone found a place that sells replacements for M48AAWOOX tubes?
This would be the 19" amplifone tube found in star wars.


Thanks


Matt

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From owner-vectorlist   Wed Jun  6 15:36:41 2001
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Message-ID: <3B1E81BA.ADDCC719@cedar-rapids.net>
Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 14:17:15 -0500
From: Rodger Boots <rlboots@cedar-rapids.net>
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I called Richardson Electronics (800-222-CRTS) and they recommend using a
19VLTP22 at a cost of $155.


Matt Rossiter wrote:

> Has anyone found a place that sells replacements for M48AAWOOX tubes?
> This would be the 19" amplifone tube found in star wars.
>
> Thanks
>
> Matt
>
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From owner-vectorlist   Wed Jun  6 19:34:04 2001
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Message-ID: <3B1EB8F8.3EC946E4@ni.net>
Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 16:12:56 -0700
From: Matt Rossiter <rossiter@ni.net>
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To: vectorlist 
Subject: Re: VECTOR: Source for Amplifone M48AAWOOX tubes?
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Well, here's some good news.  Clarke Electronics has a replacement for $109.  It
may not be listed on their website, but the owner told me they do carry
replacements.  I'm actually thinking of building an amplifone monitor for my
tempest.  :)

www.picturetubes.net

Matt

Rodger Boots wrote:

> I called Richardson Electronics (800-222-CRTS) and they recommend using a
> 19VLTP22 at a cost of $155.
>
> Matt Rossiter wrote:
>
> > Has anyone found a place that sells replacements for M48AAWOOX tubes?
> > This would be the 19" amplifone tube found in star wars.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Matt
> >
> > ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From owner-vectorlist   Thu Jun  7 08:18:00 2001
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From: "Travis Shire" <boardjunkie >
To: vectorlist 
Date: Thu, 07 Jun 2001 11:03:00 +0800
Subject: VECTOR: asteroids deluxe video inversion
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Status: RO

thanks for the replies guys....

Got 'er dicked.....
troubleshooting a sound problem led me to the inversion(or lack of) problem. Replacing the ls259 @m10 and the 4016 @r11 solved both.
Now that I look at the video output section schematic, that 4016 is responsible for feeding the invertor circuit as well as gating the thrust sound.
Man that board had a lot of problems!

All is well now and it will probably be traded for a Gorf cocktail this weekend.
Bank error.....huh? No creditors calling, John. };-)}
Maybe they owe ME some money!! Yea, right......

-- 

_______________________________________________
Make PC-to-Phone calls with Net2Phone.
Sign-up today at: http://www.net2phone.com/cgi-bin/link.cgi?121



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From owner-vectorlist   Thu Jun  7 19:03:05 2001
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Message-ID: <3B20064D.A95C28E@voyager.net>
Date: Thu, 07 Jun 2001 18:55:09 -0400
From: Bryan Kruzynski <tron@voyager.net>
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Subject: VECTOR: Cracked WGK6100 neck board.  Jumper with what gauge wire?
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   I have a WG K6100 monitor with a cracked neck board.  What's the
minimum gauge wire that I should use to jumper over the cracked circuit
paths on the board?

Thanks.

Bryan Kruzynski

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From: "Lewis Mills" <lmills01 >
To: <vectorlist >
References: <4.3.2.7.2.20010523091948.01aa5260 >
Subject: VECTOR: Battlezone backward progress
Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2001 21:41:37 -0500
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Hi all,
Well, I thought I was making progress... A BZ main board that didn't respond
at all got me to the test mode after replacing a few components and
repairing a broken edge trace. The test told me that the 2114 at C2 was bad,
so I pulled it, put in a socket, and put in a new 9114. Now I don't even get
the test tones. I get one very short tone (so short it is barely noticeable,
but I repeated the test a number of times to be sure I wasn't imagining it).
I checked to be sure that none of the traces were broken, and that I was
getting a good connection from the traces to each of the pins on the 9114,
and everything seems fine there. Any suggestions for next steps?
Thanks again

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From owner-vectorlist   Fri Jun  8 06:27:58 2001
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Message-ID: <3B20A66C.811EEB5A@cedar-rapids.net>
Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2001 05:18:20 -0500
From: Rodger Boots <rlboots@cedar-rapids.net>
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To: vectorlist 
Subject: Re: VECTOR: Cracked WGK6100 neck board.  Jumper with what gauge wire?
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Wire wrap wire works good for this, I believe that is 26 gauge.  Only "high"
current area is the CRT heater supply, and I doubt that would be much more than
6/10 of an ampere.  26 gauge should be good for way more than that over such a
short distance.


Bryan Kruzynski wrote:

>    I have a WG K6100 monitor with a cracked neck board.  What's the
> minimum gauge wire that I should use to jumper over the cracked circuit
> paths on the board?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Bryan Kruzynski
>
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Message-ID: <20010608132552.32032.qmail >
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 06:25:52 -0700 (PDT)
From: Chris Loggans <cloggans >
Subject: Re: VECTOR: Battlezone backward progress
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Lewis,

   What happens if you put the bad RAM chip back in
the socket?

Thanks,
-Chris

--- Lewis Mills <lmills01 > wrote:
> Hi all,
> Well, I thought I was making progress... A BZ main
> board that didn't respond
> at all got me to the test mode after replacing a few
> components and
> repairing a broken edge trace. The test told me that
> the 2114 at C2 was bad,
> so I pulled it, put in a socket, and put in a new
> 9114. Now I don't even get
> the test tones. I get one very short tone (so short
> it is barely noticeable,
> but I repeated the test a number of times to be sure
> I wasn't imagining it).
> I checked to be sure that none of the traces were
> broken, and that I was
> getting a good connection from the traces to each of
> the pins on the 9114,
> and everything seems fine there. Any suggestions for
> next steps?
> Thanks again
> 
>
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From: "peter jones" <highwayman2000@mail.ru>
To: vectorlist 
Subject: Re[2]: VECTOR: Battlezone backward progress
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-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Loggans <cloggans >
To: vectorlist 
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 06:25:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: VECTOR: Battlezone backward progress

> 
> Lewis,
> 
>    What happens if you put the bad RAM chip back in
> the socket?
> 
And did you check that none of the socket pins are shorted together?

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From: "Lewis Mills" <lmills01 >
To: <vectorlist >
References: <BDB229840544D411BA050000E86D717D010D7A2D@PSCMAIL>
Subject: Re: Re[2]: VECTOR: Battlezone backward progress
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 12:22:52 -0500
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Hi,
Good questions! None of the socket pins are shorted. I hadn't thought about
putting in the old chip. Just tried it, and I get the same error code that
pointed me to that chip to begin with! So with the old 2144 chip in, I get
an error saying it's bad, but with a new 9114 chip (or a different old 2114
I pulled from a non-working SEGA board), I don't even get far enough to get
an error code. Now I'm even more confused.....
Lewis


> >    What happens if you put the bad RAM chip back in
> > the socket?
> >
> And did you check that none of the socket pins are shorted together?
>
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From owner-vectorlist   Fri Jun  8 14:17:44 2001
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Message-ID: <003101c0f045$83262a20$b1c0389d >
From: "Dan" <dansmsn >
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Subject: VECTOR: Tempest help
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 11:04:50 -0700
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I have a Tempest game that isn't cooperating with me, the power and monitor
are good as I can put a known good PCB in and play the game.

Here are symptoms:
PCB powers up (red led), I can coin up the game which starts the P1 and P2
(after the second credit) start buttons flashing.  No sound or video even
after hitting the start buttons, in fact, they don't stop flashing...

Ideas?

Thanks!
-Dan


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From owner-vectorlist   Fri Jun  8 14:52:07 2001
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Message-ID: <20010608183209.39428.qmail >
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 11:32:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: LOUIS SRIANOMAI <louisurfer >
Subject: Re: VECTOR: Tempest help
To: vectorlist 
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Dan, 

You can start by putting the game into test mode. 
There is a switch on the Tempest coin door. Switch the
lever down and see if the PCB beeps or gives you any
common errors.

L.

  
--- Dan <dansmsn > wrote:
> I have a Tempest game that isn't cooperating with
> me, the power and